Monthly Archives: September 2011

In which our intrepid hero reaches out…

29 Thursday Sep 2011

Posted by in Discovery, Newfoundland, Observations, Photography, Travel

≈ Leave a Comment

Tags

Confession – I didn’t know anyone in Newfoundland, much less anyone who ever went there. I needed someone whose feet were on the ground with whom I could bounce ideas off of and ask numerous yet probably meaningless questions.

Back to the internet and a search for photographers in Newfoundland. And there were more than a few. Who to choose? Throwing a psychic dart was as good as any other method and toss it I did.

It fortuitously landed on a photographer who has since become a friend and a guide to all things Newfoundland. Screwing up my courage, I dialed his number and asked to speak with him. With typical Newfoundland hospitality (more on this in later entries), he answered all my questions and agreed to help me with any new ones. It was likely more than he bargained for. He was also amenable to meeting when I eventually got there.

Without his and his wife’s guidance, I might still be wading about in bogs evading a rutting moose. From his direction, I learned that I better ship (thank you FedEx!) my film up there as there was no source for the amount I needed. That alone made him a very valuable connection. He also suggested I not drive out in the countryside at night as those same moose can prove to be impediments to a cars’ forward progress. I would like to think he was just responding to a fellow photographer, but it was more likely the Newfoundland temperament.

So, one friend made and many miles to go before I even start to shoot. And now comes what was really a fun part, I had to figure out the logistics of a two week trip where I wouldn’t spend more than two nights in any location.

The learning curve was about to begin.

Joe Batt’s Arm… not necessarily a limb.

24 Saturday Sep 2011

Posted by in Discovery, Food, Humor, Language

≈ Leave a Comment

Tags

When I started my research for this book, as then yet unnamed, I wanted to get an idea of the geography and how people lived in Newfoundland. One of the first things I obtained was a map and that in itself was quite entertaining. It seemed like the Newfoundlander sense of humor had a lot to do with the names of the outports (fishing villages). The capital is named normally enough, St. Johns. There are the towns of Corner Brook, Marystown, Glovertown, and St. Lawrence – all whose names would not be unusual in many places.

Then came the names that were a bit different. Names such as: Bay Bulls, Frenchman’s Cove, Gambo, Burgeo, and Harbour Breton. And many more. Then came the names that were my first clue that this was going to be a special place. These included: Fortune, Witless Bay, Ireland’s Eye, Grand Bank, Twillingate, and Port au Choix. Further investigation led to: Seldom and Little Seldom, Tilting,  St. Jones Within, Leading Tickles, Cow Head, Nameless Cove, Farewell, Joe Batt’s Arm, Heart’s Content, and Dildo. Imagine the t-shirts you might bring back. In planning the trips, it was hard not to include all of them for the sheer pleasure of saying I was there.

But a map certainly would not be enough research for this project. All of the many books I read were invaluable to me, understandably some more than others. I had read Annie Proulx’s The Shipping News years earlier and enjoyed it immensely, but it had not created any interest in Newfoundland. Though, after I was well into my research, I re-read it, understood it even more clearly, and now with a small base of knowledge appreciated it that much more.

The books which were the most influential are: An Innocent in Newfoundland by David W. McFadden – a wonderfully entertaining and descriptive first-person accounting of his trip through Newfoundland; Tilting by Robert Mellin – a celebration of eastern coast fishing villages – Tilting on the island of Fogo in this case; Cod by Mark Kurlansky – an absolutely engrossing and funny historical tome complete with recipes (!) about the role cod played in the world; and Jim DeFede’s The Day The World Came To Town (9/11 in Gander Newfoundland), a joyous and heart-breaking account of the unbelievable natural hospitality and generosity of Newfoundlanders when 38 jetliners were rerouted to Gander, Newfoundland after 9/11.

OK, so now I knew a little about Newfoundland and my knowledge was growing daily. I read the St. John’s, Newfoundland newspaper, The Telegram, on line every day so I could keep up with current events. Truly, this entire project would have been a lot more difficult if it wasn’t for the internet. I’m fairly certain I could not have found those books locally.

As I mentioned, the book Cod has recipes – here’s one of them:

Cod Roe - Fed to Frenchman or to Fish:

        Roes of Cod well salted and Pickled are here neglected but are said to yield a good price in France to make Sawce withall.

        When the same are to be used, bruise them betwixt two trenchers, and beat them up with vinegar. White Wine etc. then let them stew or simmer over a gentle  fire, with Anchovies and other Ingredients used for Sawce, putting the Butter well beat thereto: We our selves on the Coasts use the Roes of Fresh Cod for sawce.                    Courtesy of: John Collins, Salt and Fishery, 1682.

Yum. I think.

A long time in the works…

21 Wednesday Sep 2011

Posted by in Discovery

≈ Leave a Comment

In the Fall of 2012, my book “Arn? Narn.” will be published by Gosslee. Throughout the period leading up to that, I’ll be blogging about the book and the subsequent work necessary to bring it to market.  This blog will be an attempt to share the many wonderful, often funny, sometimes strange, but always rewarding experiences of this journey. Feel free to comment, share your thoughts, ask questions, and ultimately look for it next year.

The project/book “Arn? Narn.” was conceived in 2003. It was originally my intent to explore, photographically, the effects of isolation on a western culture. This isolation would be one of geography: the people would have access to all aspects of communication that mainlanders do thus being connected to the “outside” world, but where they live would be a destination rather than a through-way. One had to intentionally go there. My research led me to Newfoundland. What followed took me on an entirely different and unexpected path with a profound influence on me personally.

One of the things I want to share with everyone is the rich language called Newfoundland English. There is in fact a rather large book entitled Dictionary of Newfoundland English. It’s colorful, quizzical, and the language at its root makes sense if one gives it some thought. And the title of my book, “Arn? Narn.” is what is considered to be the shortest conversation in Newfoundland English.

The story goes that there are two fishing boats in the harbor – one departing, the other returning. The departing boat’s captain yells across to the incoming captain, “Arn?” He replies, “Narn.” Translated it means: “Any fish?”, “No fish.” And that’s the crux of the matter.

I hope you enjoy this and come back often. At the very least, you’ll learn some Newfoundland English. After all, I have a copy of the dictionary.

Bruce