Monthly Archives: October 2011

St. John’s Time, diddly music, the ballet, and more…

29 Saturday Oct 2011

Posted by in Culture, Discovery, Music, Newfoundland

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Night life is a bit different in St. John’s, Newfoundland. It starts late and ends in mid-early morning – 3-4 AM. (And that doesn’t even begin to describe kitchen parties which are a whole other thing.) Bands usually play until at least 3:00 AM, music seems to be coming out from every doorway, and people are out on the streets even later and safely so. Usually a wonderful time is had by all, save for those who indulged too much in Screech or some such other libation.There are also wonderful food trucks for the late-night munchies zombies.

So, I found myself in a pub that first evening talking with a local named Oscar. Oscar was a treasure trove of info all things Newfoundland. I had hit pay dirt already. Since St. John’s was to be my starting and finishing place for this trip and I would be there for about 4-5 nights, I wanted to know which places might be of interest and which were not worth walking into.

Oscar told me all about them: this place over here is a good one if you want to go dancing – the women will come up and ask you to dance!; that place has good music; that place has diddly music (his term for Newfoundland folk music which is really very good); that’s a good restaurant but a bit over-priced; that’s a hockey bar; that’s the ballet; etc. Whoa! The ballet? It didn’t look like any ballet I knew… not with Pink in the name. I was about to ask Oscar for clarification when he excused himself to go outside for a smoke.

When he returned, I pressed him on the ballet issue. I said, “Oscar, I’m not sure I understand about the ballet. It looks like something entirely different than that.”

His response, “Oh it is. We have only one or two and that’s what we call them.” Golden lakes in the early evening notwithstanding: with lady’s choice dance bars; diddly music and more; I had the feeling I wasn’t in Kansas anymore. I was now in Newfoundland.

Screeches in the night…doobie doobie doo.

25 Tuesday Oct 2011

Posted by in Culture, Discovery, Humor, Newfoundland

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There’s a saying that goes, “If you remember Woodstock, you probably weren’t there.” Now, I won’t say I don’t remember my first night in Newfoundland, I do, but there are one or two things I’m uncertain about. Well, only one thing. And that’s becoming an Honorary Newfoundlander.

How does one go about that you say? Well, it involves a ritual ceremony called a “Screech In.” Those who survive this ceremony will forever be known as Honorary Newfoundlanders. It goes something like this:

1. The “Screech In” can only be performed by a natural-born Newfoundlander. No pretenders allowed.

2. A real fish (traditionally a cod, but since these are hard to come by, any whole fish will suffice.)

3. A Sou’Wester – heavy duty fisherman’s rain gear, complete with head gear as well.

4. A bottle of Screech – a rather strong, inexpensive, some think vile, rum.

And now the fun begins, especially for the locals who good-naturedly enjoy visitors performing for them. The ceremony host, remember a natural-born Newfoundlander, will have the victim, wearing the Sou’Wester, stand in front of group of “witnesses” The host will then hold up the fish so the future honoree can kiss the fish on the lips! All watching will have the final decision on whether or not the kiss is sufficient to continue the festivity. Some times, multiple kisses are required!

Moving along, the host will pour a shot of Screech for the victim to hold on high before imbibing but not before reciting the following: “Long may your big jib draw.” Then a certificate may be issued to inform all that this person is indeed an Honorary Newfoundlander.

I was informed on my trip I was an Honorary Newfoundlander. I didn’t have a certificate, but I do remember having a “screeching” headache. Hmmm. More on the first night next post when I learn about the ballet.

He’s leaving home, bye, bye. Welcome home.

23 Sunday Oct 2011

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The day has come and I’m heading north, way north – in the winter no less! For that I grew a full beard and mustache (which in a complete surprise to me my wife loved!) in anticipation of the cold I was certain to experience while outside photographing. It turned out to be a good move. All the planning for clothes, camera bags, and places to stay is really going to be put to the test over the next two weeks.

It should come as no shock to anyone that my flight was an hour late in taking off. Since this was the first of four legs to get to Newfoundland, I was starting to sweat it. But the pilot must have known a shortcut as we got to Detroit with a little time to spare to make the next connection. No time to eat or drink though – maybe at the next stop in Montreal.

The trip overall was uneventful. Landings equaled take-offs and all was well with the world. However, we must have come into St. Johns (capital of Newfoundland Labrador) on the Avalon Peninsula (eastern-most part of Newfoundland) from the west for, in my subsequent trips,  nothing prepared me for what I was to see that early evening. Descending in the growing darkness, we crossed over so many brilliant golden lakes defined by deep black shores as to look like a incredibly rich brocade of geography. It was impossibly beautiful and transcendent. I couldn’t wait until we landed.

We landed. I retrieved my bags and got the rental car and stepped outside for the first time In Newfoundland. My wife has said, “Where you are born is not necessarily where you’re from.” She was right. I felt like for the first time ever I was now home.

Do you have a flag?

21 Friday Oct 2011

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The very funny, British comedian Eddie Izzard does a wonderful bit about imperialism. In it, he talks about invading countries taking over foreign lands. It seems that if the occupied country has no flag, then it is fair game for the invaders.

Thankfully for Newfoundland, it has a flag and a unique one it is. Designed by Christopher Pratt and adopted by the province in 1980, all the colors and shapes have a significant meaning. White represents the snow and the ice, of which there can be a lot of in winter; blue equals the sea which completely informs the culture; red is for human efforts; gold speaks to the “confidence in ourselves”; blue is their Commonwealth heritage (the Union Jack); and the red and gold section signifies their future.

The two triangles outlined in red show the mainland and island reaching forward together; and the golden arrow points to a bright future.

The design of the flag is also symbolic. Featured in this design is the Christian Cross; the Beothuk and Naskapi ornamentation (vanished native North American tribes); the outline of the maple leaf (really!) in the center of the flag; a triumphant figure and their place in the space age. Also, the image of the trident is evident. This underscores their dependence on the sea’s resources (read this as fish). When it is hung as a banner, the shape of a sword is obvious as a remembrance of war veterans. It is a flag laden with complex meanings. But a handsome one. My thanks to worldflags101.com for the complete story.

What? You say you’ve never seen one before? Look for the bicyclist wearing a jersey with the flag as the main artwork on it. Be careful though and don’t get too close to Flags, look it, that’s me on the bike.

Does anybody really know what time it is? (Does anybody really care?) – Thanks to Chicago.

19 Wednesday Oct 2011

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Good question…especially if you’re going to Newfoundland. I had always been under the impression (wrongly it seems) that time zones were in one hour increments. Consequently, I initially had a difficult time reconciling what time it was at home and what time it was in Newfoundland. What I was calculating in time differences was just not working out.

There is a very simple reason: Newfoundland has its’ own time zone and it’s on the half hour. If you’re in New York, then Newfoundland is 1.5 hours ahead of you, (it’s ahead in a lot of things.)

And trying to remember that in planning (from afar) kept things interesting. When calling my new photographer friend, I had to make sure that I either did not call him at lunch, or early in the evening, or after he closed because I couldn’t remember that little fact. Small, but frustrating. Also when I did finally get there, I had to make sure I accounted for the 2.5 hour difference between there and home. Nothing like calling at a time you think is early only to find out it’s much earlier than from where you’re calling. I think should have gotten one of those watches that tells time in multiple time zones.

Really… you can’t get there from here and if you could…when?

14 Friday Oct 2011

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Well, you can get there from here but it was going to take a circuitous route to accomplish it. One can drive there if in a questionable state of mind. Get on the highway east through the South, north into the mid-Atlantic states up to New England and then to Nova Scotia. Once there, an eight hour (or over-night) ferry must be taken to Newfoundland. The total distance is just over 2,100 miles – driving alone is probably four and a half days complete with ferry ride. Nah, I’d fly.

On the net to find flights, I found there weren’t that many choices available. My flight would consist of four legs – Memphis to Detroit; Detroit to Montreal; Montreal to Halifax; OK, this getting a little silly, and then finally Halifax to St. Johns, ColNewfoundland.  You know, maybe driving wouldn’t be so bad after all. Nah, I’d fly. Now the question is when?

From my research, I knew that the tourist season was from late May-early June until September. And it did look awfully beautiful. But travelogue beauty or tourists wandering aimlessly into my photos were not what I was looking for. I was seeking isolation and that meant WINTER! (As I wrote earlier about the camera bag, I was also going to need appropriate clothing.)

Winters are long in Newfoundland; cold but not Minnesota cold. Each year, there are often days colder in Memphis, TN than there. But they do get a lot of snow. And fog. And it is cold. And windy on the coast. So, that certainly seemed to make sense – winter it was.

Oh no! My shoes don’t match the bag!

12 Wednesday Oct 2011

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Everyone knows travel has become increasingly difficult. I wouldn’t be surprised that if before long, you’ll have to stand before a painted silhouette of a person to make sure you’re tall enough to board your flight.

The logistics of traveling with a large amount of photographic equipment presented its own unique issues. It’s not a good idea to send it through with your luggage – you might not ever see it again or worse, have to claim it at an airport in Wyoming. How does one carry that much on the plane? Nothing I had would accomplish its safe passage to Newfoundland. I needed a special case that would hold four cameras, many lenses and accessories. (I had already determined I would ship the tripod ahead along with film.) Oh, and it had to fit either under the seat or in the bulkhead. Yeah, right.

Looking back, I can’t believe the amount of research I did on camera bags: a bag or case that would meet my peculiar requirements. A back pack might have worked, but then I’d be spending the whole trip at a chiropractor. A soft bag would not work either. Going online showed me the ridiculous number of choices in styles, colors and sizes available. I knew what kind of planes I’d be on, so I could find the maximum sizes allowed. This enabled me to narrow down the choices quickly. Finally I made my choice – a rolling bag with handle, cleverly disguised to look like real luggage that would actually hold everything and fit in the plane.

Next: clothing because even if my shoes didn’t match my new bag, at least I’d be warm.

Henrietta’s Hospitality Home, Betty’s Patch, and not a Motel 6 to be found and that’s not a bad thing.

08 Saturday Oct 2011

Posted by in Culture, Discovery, Newfoundland, Observations, Travel, Uncategorized

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There is absolutely no shortage of places to stay (in addition to the side of the road as mentioned in the previous entry) while in Newfoundland. The names of these places oftentimes reflect the Newfoundland culture and history. Try these on: the Exploits Motel (fill in your own blanks here); House on the Tickle; At Wit’s End; Fishing Point B&B; and The Bear Sleeps Inn (not in my room!).

And where you stay depends on your desire or peculiar needs. You want something luxe? You got it. How about something quaint? That too. What about an authentic fisherman’s cabin? Yup. Camping? Uh huh.

What about someone’s spare room? You know the one…where the son or daughter, aunt or uncle, grandparent, used to live? Oh, yeah. This is not to sound demeaning or disparaging. Rather it speaks to the resourcefulness of Newfoundlanders. They are more than happy to share their homes with complete strangers for a reasonably small fee. It’ll probably even include breakfast.

Let me amend that. That speaks to the natural generosity of Newfoundlanders. One place in which I stayed, asked me that when I came back off the ferry from an island I was visiting, would I like to stay there on my return as their guest! And that included breakfast and a happy hour with wine. This is the nature of Newfoundlanders and I’ll write much more on this in subsequent entries. In the meantime, I’m thinking the Tickle Inn might be a cool place to stay.

Newfoundland is BIG!

03 Monday Oct 2011

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Newfoundland is an island… a very big island. At 41,000 square miles, it’s just a little smaller than the state of Tennessee. But where Tennessee is land-locked (with the exception of the Mississippi River), Newfoundland is surrounded by water, is closer to Ireland than to Ontario and is informed by that very same water. OK, that’s enough for today’s geography lesson.

What does that have to do with traveling there? Well, a lot. Since I was going to be traversing the entire province, I needed to get an idea of where I might crash each evening. In David W. McFadden’s book, “An Innocent In Newfoundland”, he writes about driving until dark (remember the moose) with no indication of a place to stay. Resourceful soul that he is, he pulls over to the side of the road and sleeps there. Not bad: cheap, probably no bed bugs, toilet right outside the door, but no running water or a cup of coffee with which to get started. I’ve stayed in worse, but not this go-round.

In the planning stages, I determined that St. Johns, the capitol city, would be my starting and finishing point. From there I would launch out into the unknown. My research had shown a fair amount of hotels and too numerous bed and breakfasts. The B&B’s were more affordable but ran a very wide range.

Who or what to choose was determined by price (of course) and whether or not it was “en suite”. That was a new one to me. Simply put, en suite means you get a bathroom with your room, otherwise, it’s shared. Decisions, decisions. Names in Newfoundland, as I wrote about earlier, tend to the colorful. The B&B’s were no exception. More on this next time.