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"Arn? Narn."

~ "Any fish?" "No fish."

"Arn? Narn."

Tag Archives: Avalon Peninsula

Once more into the breach dear friends, once more!

23 Monday Jul 2012

Posted by Bruce Meisterman in History, Newfoundland, Travel

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Avalon Peninsula, Grand Banks, Marystown

We make our plans to head once more into the… yeah, right. (celluloidheroesreviews.com)

Rested, fed, and eager to get going, we head out of St. John’s to the Burin Peninsula. This is the only place we go that I haven’t been to, so it will be a new adventure for me as well. This will take the better part of the day as it’s on the southern most tip of the larger Avalon Peninsula, right off of the Grand Banks.

The Grand Banks in happier days had some of the best cod fishing in Newfoundland. So, when we arrive, we see many of the same scenes I witnessed in my earlier trips. But it was new to Carla and my photos while accurate, could not prepare anyone for the stark reality of the moratorium’s effect. Fishing like everywhere else in the province was non-existent. It was the same story told over again.

Marystown (on the Burin), a formerly active shipbuilding community, had not had any new contracts for quite some time and was suffering because of that as well. There was some hope of a couple of government contracts, but they had yet to be decided upon. If they were to happen, it would be a godsend for that community.

Still, with all the hardship these people have endured, the Newfoundland spirit of generosity, friendliness, and hospitality was always there, ready without any need of encouragement. It really is who they are.

So we arrived to our, I think, beautiful, little cottage right on the bay. I could have moved in and stayed forever right then. I could have. Unfortunately, Carla was not as impressed as I was. It was to be a rather quiet night.

This is it. Oh, yeah, I could stay here. (trails.com)

Before I write any more, let me recap our trip thus far: we arrive very late or very early depending on your POV and get a foul-mouthed but entertaining, cab driver to take us hastily to our first night’s stay; our B&B has locked us out of our room and we can’t reach the owners; there aren’t any rooms at any inns that night in St. John’s; we dozed in the lobby of a hotel; and now this, all in two days. Not exactly the auspicious beginning I had hoped for. I’m wondering how soon can I book us a flight out of there. This is not good. All the points I had scored at the airport were now gone like wasted political capital. Re-election didn’t look so good right now.

But to paraphrase a Cat Stevens song, “Morning had broken”, and so did her mood. It was in fact quite different. She was starting to really like our little house on the water. We had stopped at a market for provisions on our way in so I set about to making some coffee, sitting out on the front porch, looking at the fog over the water, and thinking, yes, I could very easily stay here. Oh, if only. Maybe one day.

Related articles
  • High Liner plant closure devastates Burin (cbc.ca)

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50,000+ Tickleasses and watching your step.

01 Tuesday Nov 2011

Posted by Bruce Meisterman in Newfoundland, Travel

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Avalon Peninsula, Cape St. Mary's, Irish Loop, Newfoundland

If you’re a bird watcher, this is for you. If not, maybe the snarky comments will hold your interest.

Cape St. Mary’s is in the part of Newfoundland, located on the southern tip of the southwestern arm of the Avalon Peninsula, known as the Irish Loop. It plays host to the second largest northern gannet colony in North America. I know you were sitting on the edge of your seat waiting for that one. The Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve is located here. On this rock, this sea-hugging 300 plus foot hill, there are hundreds of thousands of sea birds covering these cliffs. And when they get to their non-stop talking/singing/screeching/cackling/whatever, they sound much like the cast of The View on speed, only louder, much, much louder. After all, there are so many of them and only 4-5 on The View. The good news though is there are no commercials on Cape St. Mary’s.

It truly is a sight to see. The cliffs covered with Murre’s, Gulls of several varieties, Razorbills, and my favorite named the Kittiwake or colloquially known as the Tickleass. The Tickleasses, sorry I can’t help myself, comprise perhaps the largest group of birds there. I won’t bore you with details about coloring etc, except they are just as loud and raucous as the others.

One other thing. I mentioned the cliffs are covered with them. That’s not entirely true. It’s also covered with a lot of guano so watch your step!

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He’s leaving home, bye, bye. Welcome home.

23 Sunday Oct 2011

Posted by Bruce Meisterman in Discovery, Geography, Newfoundland, Observations, Travel

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Avalon Peninsula, Newfoundland

The day has come and I’m heading north, way north – in the winter no less! For that I grew a full beard and mustache (which in a complete surprise to me my wife loved!) in anticipation of the cold I was certain to experience while outside photographing. It turned out to be a good move. All the planning for clothes, camera bags, and places to stay is really going to be put to the test over the next two weeks.

It should come as no shock to anyone that my flight was an hour late in taking off. Since this was the first of four legs to get to Newfoundland, I was starting to sweat it. But the pilot must have known a shortcut as we got to Detroit with a little time to spare to make the next connection. No time to eat or drink though – maybe at the next stop in Montreal.

The trip overall was uneventful. Landings equaled take-offs and all was well with the world. However, we must have come into St. Johns (capital of Newfoundland Labrador) on the Avalon Peninsula (eastern-most part of Newfoundland) from the west for, in my subsequent trips,  nothing prepared me for what I was to see that early evening. Descending in the growing darkness, we crossed over so many brilliant golden lakes defined by deep black shores as to look like a incredibly rich brocade of geography. It was impossibly beautiful and transcendent. I couldn’t wait until we landed.

We landed. I retrieved my bags and got the rental car and stepped outside for the first time In Newfoundland. My wife has said, “Where you are born is not necessarily where you’re from.” She was right. I felt like for the first time ever I was now home.

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